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Fabrics

Cotton GSM explained — why fabric weight matters for streetwear

July 22, 2026

GSM stands for grams per square metre — it's a measure of how much a fabric weighs per unit of area, and it's one of the most reliable proxies for quality in cotton jersey and fleece.

Lightweight jersey (140–180 GSM) is what you find in fast-fashion basics. It's thin, semi-transparent when stretched, and tends to lose its shape after a few washes. It costs less to produce and less to ship.

Mid-weight jersey (200–240 GSM) is the sweet spot for most premium tees. Fovealworks tees sit at 220 GSM — dense enough to drape cleanly over the shoulder and chest without clinging, light enough to wear comfortably in warm weather. The fabric we use is ring-spun long-staple cotton, which means the fibres are longer and twisted more tightly than standard carded cotton. The result is a smoother surface, more resistance to pilling, and a softer hand feel that improves with washing rather than degrading.

Heavyweight fleece (340–420 GSM) is what separates a real hoodie from a sweatshirt. Our hoodies are 380 GSM cotton-poly fleece — 80% cotton, 20% polyester. The polyester content isn't a cost-cutting measure; it adds dimensional stability so the shoulder seams stay where they're supposed to after years of washing, and it prevents the fabric from bowing out at the cuffs.

How to care for your Fovealworks garment: machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, tumble dry low or air dry flat, wash inside out to protect printed areas, and avoid direct ironing on any graphics. The 220 GSM cotton is naturally resistant to pilling, but abrasive fabrics in the drum (like denim) can roughen the surface over time — washing similar fabrics together extends the life of the garment.

GSM is a starting point, not the whole story. Hand feel, fibre quality, and the finishing process (pre-washing, enzyme washing, garment dyeing) all affect how a finished garment feels and looks. We test every batch before it enters a drop.